Worldwide, the end of the COVID-19 era has meant a before and after in this category, since color had been forgotten under masks. Color cosmetics is presented worldwide as a strong pillar, with data from 2022 reaching a total of 69,200 million US dollars worldwide, and with a growth projection of 5.6% for 2030. Japan and Canada are located among the most prominent markets and, Germany, at the European level, with an estimated growth of 4.1% of Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR).

A sector that is strong in the face of a year of global economic instability due to aspects such as the crisis in Ukraine or the rise in prices, cosmetics being an escape route within affordable luxury to achieve the consumer’s sense of well-being and personal care. , making it an indispensable sector in your routines.

Analysis of the growth of European countries in color cosmetic products

Analyzing the European panorama, the countries that have presented the most growth in value this last year are Italy with 13.7% followed by Spain with 9.1%, highlighting in turn the non-EU role of the United Kingdom, which has presented a growth of 14 ,5%. However, the best growth prospects are seen in Germany with a growth forecast of 4.9% for 2026, followed by Poland with 3.5%. However, as can be seen in Graph 1, all the countries present similar lines of growth over the years, where the drastic fall produced in 2020 due to the pandemic has been left behind, showing an almost complete recovery in the majority. of the countries with values similar to those of 2019 and a stable future projection.

“Despite the strength of the market, not all European consumers have been equally hit by inflation. Analysis of surveys of European consumers show that while 70% say they continue to spend the same on grooming and beauty products, 50% are more price conscious, launching themselves in search of promotions that allow them to lower purchase costs (Mintel Market Sizes)”

There is a population gap with part of the population affected by their economic situation that will inevitably affect their way of purchasing. This consumer has acquired new habits by living more up to date, turning to different centers in search of the best promotions, and showing a more moderate consumption in search of smaller and more concentrated products that allow reducing the cost. A problem that companies will be able to overcome through maximum transparency and complicity with these consumers, resorting to conscious price increases with their pockets that allow profit margins to be maintained.

Data that has accompanied all categories, favoring above all the color sector, which has shown the highest growth in relation to 2021 with 29.4%. Leading the evolution of the sector are lip products, with 63% growth, followed by facial products with 36%. A growth that will be followed by economic stability, marking a prosperous market to bet on investment in innovation.

“In Spain, the cosmetics market ranks as one of the strongest presenting historical figures, according to data from Stanpa, with an effervescent growth of 10.6% and a total consumption of 9,250 million euros”

It is not possible to refer to the situation of the Spanish market, without mentioning the movement of exports that it presents in the sector. At present, Spain continues to export more perfumery and cosmetic products than recognized national products, such as wine, oil or footwear, according to data from Stanpa. Placing our country in one of the top 10 world exporters of perfumery and cosmetic products, reaching a total of 6,515 million euros in 2022, 21% more than in 2021.

Figures that have benefited all categories, with color cosmetics accounting for 22% of the total weight in Spain, ranking second with the greatest weight behind perfumes. By regions where there is more growth, it is in countries such as Oceania, with an increase of 155%; and the European Union with 53%, with Australia (+160%), Italy and Germany (+60% each) ranking among the main destination countries. These data are a reflection of the high value of the Beauty from Spain brand, recognized worldwide for its excellent quality and competitiveness, consolidating itself as a benchmark country in the sector.

Sustainability and “cruelty free”, basic claims in the color cosmetic sector

In general, the market situation is permeated by claims for sustainability, safety and effectiveness, going from being considered as trends to becoming essential axes for the release of any product. Among the aspects related to safety, the evaluation of ingredients in such a way that they ensure animal protection is particularly relevant. Despite the prohibition by the European Cosmetic Regulation 1223/2009 of the testing of ingredients on animals, there are exceptions. In the event that for reasons of environmental and worker safety the safety of the product cannot be guaranteed by alternative methods, it would be possible to be licensed by the European Agency for Chemical Substances and Mixtures (ECHA) for animal testing.

Among the ingredients that have lived through this exception are some such as homosalate, a common sunscreen ingredient that is already used in many foundations and skin care products in color cosmetics.

“Given this, the United Kingdom has just published a statement denying the granting of more licenses for animal testing of these chemical products, if they are exclusively intended to be used as ingredients in cosmetics”

In a global situation, where “cruelty free” claims appear on most products and are highly claimed by consumers, more and more countries are taking the step to join these restrictions, such as Canada where authorities are making new moves to make it illegal. Regulatory initiatives that the European cosmetic institutions support their implementation worldwide, being a turning point for manufacturing companies to get ahead with the use of alternative methods.

Also, today, it is imperative to understand sustainability developments from both a consumer and regulatory standpoint. In this sense, the use of plastic polymers is resonating in the industry due to the great impact caused by the cosmetics industry in the generation of this waste. Among some aspects that involve it is the manufacture of products with microplastics or the use of plastic packaging.

“In a study carried out by Green Peace Italy, 672 products were evaluated, plastics being present in 79%, where 38% were solid microplastics, being above all present in masks and lipstick.”

Pending the final publication by ECHA, the proposal issued in 2022 verifies the prohibition of the use of primary microplastics (intentionally incorporated) according to the definition, proposing a transition period for the change of 12 years in products lipsticks, makeup and nails. In this category, among the wide variety of microplastic ingredients used, we find Nylon-12, where despite being disappearing in some products such as shadows, its powerful action improving aspects such as texture and durability of the products mark its stable and even growing presence in products. such as powders or lipsticks (Graph 2).

These restrictions represent an economic and technical effort for companies in reformulation, where research is already providing a solution with the search for alternatives with polymers in soluble and more biodegradable formats. On the other hand, regarding the use of plastic packaging in cosmetics, initiatives such as the Waste and Contaminated Soils Bill mark the beginning of the end of this material in packaging. The cosmetics sector is one of the most polluting, producing more than 120,000 million single-use containers, reflecting the need to seek new alternatives where innovations in new materials or formats, such as refills, make their way. A challenge for companies that will require its imposition as soon as possible, in order to establish a gradual change in a profitable manner and that does not jeopardize the viability of the sector.

In this way, analyzing the world panorama, a resistant market is presented in the face of the current period of economic uncertainty, consolidating itself as a strong and growing sector, marked very positively by the end of masks. Being that innovation will play a key role to adapt to an increasingly eco-conscious regulatory and consumer environment, with the search for sustainable, safe and effective products that allow maximum benefit to be achieved.

Bibliography

Radiografía del sector de la cosmética y la perfumería en España, Stanpa, 2022
Propuesta de Restricción de Microplásticos de la ECHA, Stanpa, 2023
Melisa Meisel, Skin care, wellness permeate the make up market place, 2023, happi
Beauty & Personal Care Retailing – Europe, Mintel, 2023
CTPA Welcomes UK Government Action to Ensure No Cosmetic Ingredients Need to be Tested on Animals, CTPA, 2023
CTPA welcomes UK Government action to ensure no cosmetic ingredients need to be tested on animals, The facts about, 2023