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ADVANCED RELEASE – Protection of active compounds using advanced release technologies and their application in cosmetics  

Year: 2019

MOTIVATION

In recent years, interest has grown worldwide in the use of new technologies in the cosmetics sector, to achieve better results and greater effects, and provide an added-value factor to cosmetics.

Cosmetics contain active substances that are unstable and sensitive to temperature, pH, light and oxidation. These substances may produce unwanted reactions and lose their effectiveness or lead to degradation of the product. Therefore, advanced release technologies have been developed to increase stability, protect against degradation and direct and control the release of the active compound. The project will develop the use of these technologies to stabilise ingredients in cosmetic products.

OBJECTIVES

• Advanced release technologies are system allowing active compounds to be encapsulated within a polymeric matrix, helping to increase their useful life, prevent their degradation or volatilisation, control their release in the indicated place and in the specific time and increase stability and effectiveness.
• Vitamins are essential molecules that the human body cannot synthesise from the intake of other molecules. The family of vitamins is vast, but only a few are of cosmetic value. Vitamin A (and its derivatives, retinol, retinal and retinoic esters) are highly restorative, while vitamin B is present in numerous biochemical processes. Vitamin C is an excellent antioxidant used in skin whitening and vitamin E is a powerful antioxidant. Vitamin F is not officially a vitamin, but it is derived from essential fatty acids and vitamin H (biotin) is good for growth and hair care. Except for vitamin B and vitamin H, these molecules become unstable over time and in the aqueous medium of cosmetic formulations.
• Probiotics are live microorganisms that when administered in adequate amounts produce beneficial effects on the health of the host. The human body naturally contains vast quantities of these bacteria, called microbiota. Probiotics are now in the vanguard of cosmetic treatments for their powers of reparation, soothing and balancing the epidermal barrier.
• The objective of the project is to protect vitamins and probiotics to increase their stability and effectiveness in the final cosmetic formulation.

The scientific and technical objectives are more clearly detailed below:

• Determine current drawbacks associated with active compounds in existing cosmetic formulations.
• Establish the needs to protect vitamins and probiotics to ensure their functionality and stability.
• Develop advanced release technologies for the protection of these compounds
• Formulation of products for skin and hair care with protected vitamins and probiotics
• Evaluation of the effectiveness of the encapsulated compounds in cosmetic; adhesion, penetration, oxidation and stability.
• Comparison of the effectiveness of the compounds with the effectiveness of the encapsulated compounds.

EXPECTED RESULTS

The expected results include the creation of solutions for the improvement of the efficacy of vitamins and probiotics through advanced release technologies. This will require the following:

• Development of a map of current technological know-how for the protection of compounds in cosmetics (requirements, process, size, applications, technical limitations, etc.)
• Asset protection through different advanced release technologies (High Pressure Homogenisation, Spray Drying, Co-extrusion Gelification, Fluid Bed, Membrane Emulsification Technology, etc.)
• Stabilisation of assets in cosmetic formulations.

This project is funded by the Conselleria d’Economia Sostenible, Sectors Productius, Comerç i Treball de la Generalitat Valenciana, through IVACE.

GRANT NUMBER: IMAMCI/2019/1

MORE INFORMATION IN THE NON-ECONOMIC ACTIVITIES PLAN

Additional Information

• Year: 2019

• Status: Finished

• Entity: IVACE

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